Waxoyl

Hi folks. After our last Mot I’ve been advised that we need to knock off the old undershield (inherited from PPO) and get the van waxoyled. Having never attempted this on a Type 2 I’m tempted to get it done properly by someone who has the gear and knows what they are doing. So, any recommendations for waxoyling a bus in or around Edinburgh? Anyone had this down before and can give me an idea of cost? I’d looked into last year and was quoted 700+ by a guy through in the West, is this realistic?
Cheers
Ross

Iv redone mine once horrible job and you always find problem areas that need to be treated once old stuff removed. But saying that done it over 2 weekend and cost (I’m not sure exactly but we’ll under £100).

Not looking forward to finding out what’s hidden under there - have a bad feeling about prior bodge-work. Having said that, will be good to get it done and know that our chassis/floor is sound. Did you get get any quotes/advice, or did you just wing it?

Ross - 26/5/2017 9:06 AM

Hi folks. After our last Mot I’ve been advised that we need to knock off the old undershield (inherited from PPO) and get the van waxoyled. Having never attempted this on a Type 2 I’m tempted to get it done properly by someone who has the gear and knows what they are doing. So, any recommendations for waxoyling a bus in or around Edinburgh? Anyone had this down before and can give me an idea of cost? I’d looked into last year and was quoted 700+ by a guy through in the West, is this realistic?
Cheers
Ross

Just spraying waxoyl on rusty metal is a waste of time, as it doesn’t stop it rusting. Any rust should be dressed back and treated with some good quality product. I tend to use Hydrate 80 these days. After being treated, it can be painted and or waxoyled. Having done far to many cars over the years I’m not such a big fan of waxoyl anymore. Its good for box sections though, and areas that are hard to get a coat of paint on, but elsewhere a decent lick of paint is preferrable and easier to subsequently clean up and repaint.

Cool, cheers Keith. Paint is something I’m more familiar with, and happier using myself. What kind of paint would you recommend - I’ve read bad things about Hammerite, flakes off etc? Or is that just when folk don’t knock the old stuff back to bare metal? I’ll read up on hydrate 80, thanks.

I have had this theory about a total treatment:- de-rust, prime well, paint, underseal, waxoyl. But maybe delete the underseal; a garage renewing the underseal missed a wee little crack, which revealed 5" rusty patch with holes. (Mk2 Golf). Ditto Mex.VW; caught in time with no damage. Can’t face trying to strip it all; reckon to inspect every square inch, dig it away wherever it’s not well stuck, leave it for now wherever it holds on. Lazy compromise. Whatever - hope you can preserve that good bus forever.

Ross - 26/5/2017 1:31 PM

Cool, cheers Keith. Paint is something I’m more familiar with, and happier using myself. What kind of paint would you recommend - I’ve read bad things about Hammerite, flakes off etc? Or is that just when folk don’t knock the old stuff back to bare metal? I’ll read up on hydrate 80, thanks.

There are many options. Hydrate 80 is a rust convertor that also seals the surface and bonds with it. It wont flake or chip, but you must get rid of any grease or oil first as its water based. You then can coat it was any type of paint. Another product that gets good reviews is epoxy primer. It’s a too part system, paint and hardener. It bonds well to surfaces and unlike other primers is not porous so you don’t have to top coat it. It is very good at resisting rust. Hammerite is not something I have used for years. It chips easily, and doesn’t prevent further rusting.

HI Keith
Where do you get the Hydrate 80 from and how much dose it cost ,as I want to clean of any surface rust and treat it before

          my van goes back on the road . What about using POR 15 after to seal the surface have heard good reports about it. 


                                                      cheers russell

Just google Hydrate 80. I’m not a fan of POR15. I tried it before, but had mixed results. If you don’t prep it properly, it will come off in sheets. I’d rather use epoxy primer instead.